There are many glorious science-based terms when it comes to surfing. We all talk about swells, of course, the underwater energy that creates a breaking wave. But we'll look at swell angles and ...

A ripple tank can be used to investigate the frequency close frequencyThe number of waves produced each second. The unit of frequency is hertz (Hz)., wavelength close wavelengthThe length of a single ...

Diffraction occurs when a wave encounters an obstruction in its path and will change direction, or wrap around it. In ocean waves, we see this occur when a wave encounters an object like a jetty and ...